Jessica Herman

Fashion designer Orlando Espinoza continuously returns to the word "sexy" when he describes the look of his designs. "For instance, this top is a very risqué top," he says, standing in front of a garment with a cowl neck that exposes the wearer's lower back. "I'm glad to see that we're breaking these conservative barriers. [The women I design for] have to be in touch with their sensuality."

A gallery of fabric silhouettes exhibiting Espinoza's spring/summer collection stretches across two walls and circles around to his nameplate, printed in bold type and highlighted with track lighting like a piece of art. Cut from rayon matte jersey, sueded silk charmeuse and stretch silk, the designs are sufficiently polished for professional women on the up and up and playful enough for denim-wearing days in the city. Using solid materials--muted colors like pale blue and grey complement a primarily black-and-white palette----Espinoza integrates subtle details of ruching, pin-tucking and arching, contouring lines.

Born and bred in Los Angeles, he entered the industry as an assistant to designer Sue Wong after graduating from the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising in Los Angeles. He settled in Chicago five years ago and built his current haven in the Industrial Corridor (just south of the Merchandise Mart) where a bundle of artist types reside in one building. A fitting room enclosed on either side by flimsy white curtains separates Espinoza's pristine office space from his production room, where fitting models try on the wares before he sends shipments to boutiques in and outside of the city.

"When you're working with a group of women who are confident strong women, you have to almost live up to their expectations," he says, emphasizing the inspiration that he derives from his models and clients.

Likening his sense of style to high-end designers like Zac Posen, Narciso Rodriguez, Proenza Schouler and Balenciaga, Espinoza describes himself as a pioneer. He references art, architecture and life in general as his influences.

"I feel women are very in tune with their identity," he says, noting an increased appreciation for fashion-forward thinking. "They don't want to look like every woman."

Chicago area boutiques currently carrying Orlando Espinoza's line include Jake, Celeste Turner, Della Moda and Ami Ami.

(2005-03-22)

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